The 10-man arctic tent with liner is a six-sided pryamidal tent supported by a telescopic pole. The tent is designed to accommodate 10 men and their clothing and equipment. It will hold additional personnel by leaving packs and equipment outside the tent, or by lowering the center pole, which allows the sidewalls to spread out to cover more ground surface. The tent has two doors, which permits joining of tents for access from one tent to another. A snow cloth is attached to the bottom of the sidewalls for sealing the tent to the ground. The snow cloth should always be to the outside of the tent with pine or spruce boughs underneath, or it may freeze to the ground. This allows easy escape in case of an emergency if the doors are blocked. The tent is ventilated by four built-in ventilators on opposite sides and near the top of the tent.

Figure 3-1. Ten-man arctic tent.

3-6. BUILDING ARCTIC TENTS

The shelter is easily built by four trained soldiers. Consider the following when pitching or striking tents in snow or on frozen ground.

Snow should be cleared to the ground surface to obtain a lower silhouette and gain advantage of ground temperatures, which are generally warmer than upper air temperatures. Enough pine or spruce boughs should be placed on the tent and floor, and under the snow covers, for insulation and comfort. If an insulating material is not used, the heat of the stove will thaw the ground insulation in a sea of mud. The snow covers will freeze to the ground, preventing escape from the tent in case of an emergency. When it is impractical to remove the snow to the ground level, an adequate tent site can be prepared by packing the snow with skis or snowshoes until a firm base is provided for pitching. The center pole is placed on a log or other suitable support to keep it from sinking into the snow.

In open terrain, with a strong wind, it will be necessary to build a 1-meter-high snow wall on the windward side of the tent to protect it from the wind. The tent is pitched with the entrance angled about 45 degrees from the downwind side. When the tent is set up, the snow cloth around the bottom of the tent should be spread out so that snow or logs can be placed on it to help in anchoring the tent.

Figure 3-2. Windbreak.

Driving tent pins into frozen ground is impossible. Tents may be pitched and anchored by attaching the tent lines to trees, branches, logs, or stumps. If these are not available, holes are dug into the snow for the purpose of using "deadmen." This is done by digging a hole into the snow large enough to insert a pole or log about 1 meter long with the tent line attached. The hole is filled with snow and well packed. The packed snow freezes, securely anchoring the tent. In powder or dry snow, water would be poured into the hole.

Figure 3-3. Deadmen.

The smaller tent (five-man) provides the commander more flexibility in distribution of his forces. You can never be assigned a tactical mission in the arctic without provisions for a shelter. This tent enables a smaller unit to be assigned an independent mission, such as patrol or reconnaissance mission. It is also six-sided, pyramidal, and supported by a telescopic tent pole. It is designed to accommodate four to five men and their clothing and equipment. The tent can provide shelter for a rifle squad or other similar unit when rucksacks are placed outside the tent.

3-7. INSTRUCTIONS FOR PITCHING TENTS

Instructions for pitching tents are sewn securely to the tent just inside the door. Although the instructions are easily read and followed, there is one thing that should be remembered when pitching either tent. After the tent is spread out flat on the ground, the six corner eave lines should be staked out and loosely secured to the stakes before the tent is raised. These lines are yellow for easy identification. The stakes or tie-down points for these lines should be located about 2 meters from the tent. After this is done, proceed with the tent pitching as indicated in the instructions. The door eave line should be propped up by placing the line over a pole (tree branch or other object higher than the door entrance) and then stake the line out to a pike or tie-down point. This procedure keeps the door from sagging and makes the zipper work better. Drying lines should be attached to the liner inside the tent to allow drying of clothes.

In winter the tent will normally be covered with ice and snow, which must be removed before the tent is struck. This can be done by shaking the tent or by beating it with a mitten or stick. If the snow cloth is frozen to the ground, the snow and ice around it must be removed by chopping or shoveling. This must be done carefully to avoid damage to the snow cloth. One way to do this is to ease the shovel between the cloth and the ground and gently pry the cloth away from the ice.

When the bottom of the tent is properly sealed and the door is zipped, moisture will form on the inside of the tent and collect on clothing and equipment. Carbon monoxide and fumes from the stove can accumulate to a dangerous degree. To avoid this, ensure that the ventilators near the peak of each tent are open.

The roof of the shelter must be steep enough to shed snowfall. With both the 5-man and 10-man tent, the area that will become the floor of the tent is dug, packed, and insulated with pine, spruce boughs, or similar material. Snow walls should then be built to protect against wind.

3-8. YUKON STOVE

The Yukon stove is used to heat the 10-man, 5-man, and GP small tent. In addition to providing heat, the top surface of the stove and the area beneath the stove may be used to heat rations and water. The stoves use standard MOGAS but may also be operated with diesel fuel or JP-4 without modification. NEVER MIX FUELS. When solid fuels (wood, coal, etc.) are used, the stove must be modified by removing the burner unit, closing the burner opening, and turning over the wire grate so there is space below for draft and ashes.

A flue cap, issued as a component part of the Yukon stove, shields the stovepipe top from the wind and prevents the wind from blowing smoke or gases down the pipe into the stove and tent. The flue cap is equipped with three 4 1/2-meter lines that are used to steady the stovepipe and anchor it in high winds. These guy lines must be anchored to the tent or tent ropes, not to the ground or nearby trees. The stovepipe hole cover must be rolled up and tied off to prevent nylon ties from touching the stovepipe.

A firm base for the stove must be provided to keep it from melting down into the snow. The base should be 35 centimeters by 70 centimeters and be made of lightweight metal or salvaged plywood. If plywood is used, it should be covered with metal or aluminum foil. If those materials are not available, a base can be made out of small logs about 10 centimeters in diameter.

Figure 3-4. Yukon stove.

A simple stand for holding the fuel can is built by obtaining three poles 2 meters long. The poles are tied about two thirds of the way up and then spread out to form a tripod. The fuel can should be at least 1 meter higher than the stove. If the fuel can is wobbly or if there is a wind, the can should be tied to this tripod. Make sure the can is tilted so that the air is trapped in the uppermost corner.

Figure 3-5. Tripod for gas can.

3-9. PRECAUTIONS

The following precautions must be observed when the Yukon stove is being used:

• All stovepipe connections must be tight, and the tent stovepipe shield properly adjusted. The stove must be level to ensure that the burner assembly will spread the flame evenly throughout the stove.

• Ensure that the fuel line is made of natural rubber and suitable for extreme-cold operation. It must be protected so it cannot be accidentally pulled loose and must have a drip intercept loop to prevent fuel from running down the line and into the tent.

• Rate of fuel flow must be checked regularly. It will change with the fuel level and will need adjustment. All fuel supplies must be kept outside the tent.

• The stove should never be left unattended when it is burning. Allowing the stove to become too hot may cause the stove body to become overheated and warped and burn the tent down.

• If the flame is accidentally put out, or if the fuel can is being changed, the drip valve must be turned off. When the stove has cooled, excess fuel inside the stove must be removed. Two or three minutes must pass so gas fumes escape before relighting the burner. When burning gasoline, the burner must be cool before relighting the stove. If the stove is lit before the burner has cooled, the fuel will vaporize, causing it to explode.

• If the tactical situation does not require personnel to be awake 24 hours a day, turn the stove off during sleeping time.

The following are precautions when burning wood or coal:

• Fuel should be fed in small amounts until there is a hot bed of coals.

• The stove should not become overheated.

• Gasoline should not be poured on the wood or coal inside the stove to hurry starting the fire.

• Ashes should be removed regularly and not allowed to accumulate higher than the bottom of the grate.

• NEVER MIX FUELS.

3-10. SQUAD STOVE, M1950

The one-burner squad stove is a cooking and heating unit for two to five men. It is used when operating in an isolated or forward area when separated from the ahkio group. The stove is small, compact, and lightweight, and it will operate on either MOGAS or white gasoline. The initial pressure for its operation is generated by a few strokes on the hand pump. Thereafter, the pressure is generated by heat from the burner evaporating the fuel in the stove tank.

Figure 3-6. Gasoline cooking stove, M1950.

To operate the squad stove, do the following:

• Snap out the three feet and set stove on a level surface.

• Raise the grate arms and turn them outward so that the inner tabs can be engaged in the slots in the burner shield.

• Close the valve by turning the indicating knob clockwise to the OFF position.

• Unscrew the pump caps and remove the pump assembly.

• Fill the gasoline tank three-fourths full.

• Wipe off any gasoline that may have been spilled during filling and replace the pump cap.

• Pump 10 strokes to build up initial pressure.

• Turn the indicating knob to the ON position for 3 seconds. This allows the gasoline to rise through the generator to the burner and preheated cup.

• Turn the indicating knob to the OFF position to prevent excess fuel from accumulating in the burner assembly.

• Light the wick and allow the flame to burn for about 3 minutes or until the flame turns blue.

• Turn the indicating knob to the LIGHT position. Have a second match ready to relight the burner immediately if the flame goes out.

• When the flame in the burner turns blue, turn the indicating knob to the ON position.

• Pump an additional 10 strokes to maintain pressure within the tank. The stove is now ready for use.

• If the flame burns unevenly or dies during operation, turn the valve to the OFF and ON position several times, relight quickly, and pump several additional strokes.

• To turn the stove off, turn the indicating knob to the OFF position and allow the flame to go out.